Tulkinghorn is relieved to hear that it's not just legal hacks who run up the expense accounts of lawyers now and again, as this cautionary tale reveals.

A few weeks ago a couple of unwitting Dechert partners shouted a client to lunch. On arriving at the restaurant, the client said: “Oh, last time I was here we had a very good red.” Unfortunately, even with the help of the wine list, the name of the wine escaped him. Unperturbed by this moment of dementia, the client proceeded to try each of the wines on the list, bottle by bottle.

A number of hours – and lot more £s – later, the particular vintage in question still could not be found. At which point the frustrated client ordered a bottle of the house wine – and finally his question was answered. No doubt it was a cheeky red for a suitably cheeky client.